Tuesday, January 8, 2008

Kitchen backsplash, wall prep

Hello again, and welcome!

Let's get started on preparing your backsplash wall to receive your tile.

Generally speaking, you are going to want a smooth, clean surface to apply the tile to.

Some backsplashes will have an existing wall covering on them. Such as, laminate, tile, or wall paper. These will need to be removed prior to installing your tile.

Removing laminate (Formica, or other): Please observe safe practices when removing laminate from your wall, as it is very sharp and can cut you. Wear safety glasses, and gloves.

Begin by carefully prying up a corner of the laminate, if you don't have access to a corner, pry up at an edge, or at an outlet or switch. Use great care not to damage areas of the wall which will not be covered by tile, but if you do it's not the end of the world, those areas will simply need to be repaired and repainted. After removing the laminate, scrape as much of the adhesive off of the wall as you can, using a 4" razor scraper. Don't worry if you damage the wall a little.

Removing existing tile from a backsplash is a little more challenging. Use a small pry bar or chisel to get under the edge of a tile, with a little luck and elbow grease, the tile will pry off somewhat easily. If, however, you are unlucky, the tile and drywall will come off together. If this happens, don't worry, you can replace the damaged drywall with new after you are done with the tear out. In fact, some pros prefer to gut to the walls and replace the drywall. That way, you have a clean flat surface to tile over. If you manage to get the tile off without taking the drywall with it, scrape the wall as clean as you can.

If your surface is painted, your job SHOULD be much easier. I say should, because homes built before 1978 are more likely to have lead in the paint. If you are certain your paint does not contain lead, all that is needed to prepare the surface is to sand it with a medium grit sand paper, to remove any loose paint, and rough up the surface. If you do suspect that your paint contains lead, you will need to take special precautions. I should think gloves, a respirator, safety glasses, and wet sanding the wall should suffice.

Some homes will not contain drywall at all, but lath and plaster. The prep for these walls is similar. However, bear in mind, if you need to gut a wall of this type, it will be much more difficult to repair due to the nature and thickness of the material. If you need extra help in this regard, or have any questions for that matter, post your comments and I will answer them the best I can.

If you damaged the wall while removing the existing covering you will need to repair the damage. Small holes that go all the way through the drywall, should be taped with an alkaline resistant mesh tape. Larger holes will need to be cut square, and patched with a piece of drywall, and the mesh tape. You can then go over the holes, dings, peeled paper, and small amounts of left over adhesive, with a good quality polymer modified thinset mortar. Do not use regular drywall joint compound or spackle, as the setting material you'll use to stick the tile to the wall will not adhere to these very well. The best way to fix a lot of imperfections is to apply a thin coat of thinset mortar, or skim coat, to the entire wall. Use the flat side of a notched trowel, or a drywall knife 6" or larger.

If you did tear out to the studs, you may want to consider replacing the drywall with 1/2" cement board. Although not necessary, it will provide a superior surface for tiling. Be sure to tape all seams and corners with the alkaline resistant mesh tape, and thinset mortar.

There you have it. You should now have a surface that is ready for tile!

Coming next, we will begin tiling the backsplash.

Thanks for listening, see you next time.

10 comments:

Unknown said...

Tile Contractor,

I am getting ready to do some improvements to our kitchen. We are getting new countertops, and then I am planning on using a mesh-backed glass mosaic tile for the backsplash, but I am a little nervous about it, a true first timer when it comes to tiling. My home was built in 1938 and has lath and plaster walls. When I remove the current tile from the walls, I may get some irregularities in the wall underneath. If this should happen, should I just skim coat with thinset mortar to smooth out the walls?

Josh, Omaha

TILEARTIST said...

Hello Josh,
Thank you for your comment.

The best course of action for you to take would be, to remove the plaster and lath down to bare studs, fur out the wall, and hang cement board. I realize that is a lot of work, but it would definitely achieve the best results.

If you feel you don't want to attempt a complete gutting of the walls which will receive the tile, and the plaster remains in good shape after removing the existing tile, you could scrape the wall down real good and skim with a high quality, highly modified thinset. However, if the plaster is not sound, or you cannot remove the left over existing adhesive residue to achieve a flat surface to accept your mosaics, you will be left with little choice but to remove the lath and plaster. :(

An equally important consideration for your glass tile installation is the choice of setting materials. Be sure to follow the tile manufacturer's instructions to the letter with regards to acceptable thinsets to use.

I hope that helps, feel free to post any additional questions you may have.

Kind regards,

TILEARTIST

Unknown said...

tileartist,

I appreciate all the advice you have given me so far, but I have to say, I have a few more questions.

We were really wanting to use a glass mosaic tile and I have read a lot about installation of the tile, how they are made, etc. I was curious what you thought about mesh-backed vs. paper-faced tile sheets? It sounds like the paper-faced tiles are a bit more challenging to install. My wife seems to like a tile that is paper faced. Any tips that you might have for me?

Thanks again.

Josh, Omaha

TILEARTIST said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
TILEARTIST said...

Hello again Josh,
Mesh backed, and paper faced glass mosaics can both present certain challenges.

Mesh backed mosaics tend to be a little more user friendly.

Having said that, don't let the challenges of the paper faced mosaics deter you from choosing them, especially if your wife likes one of the paper faced selections. :)

Again, the best advice I can give you with regards to any glass tile, is to follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. If their thinset recommendation list has a non sag lightweight mortar, use it. Make sure you use an appropriate sized notch for your trowel, too large will cause thinset to ooze through, and too small will possibly show the ridge marks and cause bonding issues.

If you care to share exact brand names, and which line of tile for each manufacturer, I can provide more detailed instructions.

A great website for another opinion is, the John Bridge Ceramic Tile Forums. I participate regularly over there, and they are a great bunch of professionals that offer free, friendly advice.

Here is the address to the John Bridge Forums, copy and paste it into your browser's URL: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
Post your questions in the Tile Forum/Advice board.

Hope that helps. :)

Fell free to come back here as often as you like to ask questions.

TILEARTIST

Rob said...

Tileartist, I hope you are still checking for new comments. I was wondering if it was possible to just hand cement board on the ugly plaster wall (damaged after removing the laminate backsplash) without stripping it down to the bare studs. If not, can I remove the plaster and lath from just the parts of the wall where I want to install tile? Or do I have to remove the cabinets and replace the entire wall? I have read that replacing plaster and lath with cement board can be difficult especially to get it plumb and flat. Is this something a rather novice DIYer can handle himself?

-Rob

TILEARTIST said...

Hello Rob, I am so sorry I missed your comment, for some reason I didn't get an email notification for it. It is not possible to simply hang cement board over the top of your plaster. This will create the need for some sort of mud cap, and this will severely limit your tile choices. The best thing to do is cut out the sections you want to replace. You don't need to remove cabinets, and you don't necessarily need to use cement board. Plain old drywall should do the trick. Plaster tends to be thicker than 1/2" drywall, so you may need to shim it out to meet your existing plaster. At the home improvement stores they usually sell 1/4" lath strips that work nicely. Again, sorry for missing your comment. I am now back monitoring this blog, and will add new content very shortly. Thanks for stopping by.

TILEARTIST said...

BTW Rob, yes, this is definitely something a DIYer can handle. Please don't hesitate to ask more questions if you need guidance. That is, if I'm not already too late to this party. :(

Anonymous said...

I need to tile a wall that is right next to an electric stove. Previously the wall was painted with gloss paint and it's bubbling due to the heat from the stove. Is ceramic tile safe to use or should it be a different type of tile? What should I use to remove the paint? Great web site. Thank you.

Anonymous said...

Hi, not sure if you're still monitoring this blog. I have a question on preparing a wall for tile in my kitchen. The current back splash is laminate and it is not possible to remove it as it runs behind the cabinets and would involve a whole lot more than I can handle in removing the cabinets. Would screwing in cement board over the laminate and the area where I want to tile be a good solution as a base for the new tile? Do you have any other suggestions?


Thanks! Kim